At our directly managed stores and pop-up shops, we sometimes receive these questions:
"Is this a sewing defect?"
"Is it okay for the thread to overlap here?"
They point to a seam where the thread overlaps multiple times. Indeed, it might be a bit concerning if you're not used to seeing it.
But rest assured, that overlapping thread has an important role to play in ensuring the product lasts a long time.
This time, we will introduce Munekawa's philosophy behind its sewing, including triple stitching, the choice not to stitch in certain areas, and how to repair damaged thread.
There's a reason for the overlapping thread
If you look closely at Munekawa products, you'll find areas where the thread is stitched three times, overlapping itself.
Wallets and bags are opened and closed many times every day, and stress is applied each time items are taken out or put in. Areas where stress tends to concentrate are particularly prone to thread damage if sewn with standard stitching, and they can also be starting points for fraying.
Therefore, at Munekawa, we intentionally stitch these areas with overlapping thread to prevent thread breakage and fraying.
At first glance, it might look like the thread is simply overlapping. However, this overlap is a deliberately applied stitch, intended for a tool that will be with you for a long time.
To stitch or not to stitch
You might have the impression that "the more securely it's sewn, the more durable it is." It might seem like increasing the number of parts and stitching points would result in a more robust product.
However, the reality is a little different.
A needle hole is a small "hole" made in the leather. The more stitching points there are, the more places there are where the thread can rub and break over time.
Furthermore, the slight protrusion of the thread can create a step that impairs the feel of daily use, such as when inserting or removing cards. While a subtle detail, the presence or absence of such small stresses can affect the usability of tools you use every day.
That's why Munekawa designs products with the philosophy of securely stitching where it's necessary, and not stitching where it's not needed.
For example, the slim bi-fold wallet "Carriage" and the slim coin purse "Undo" are products whose stitching has been reduced in recent revisions. By intentionally eliminating stitching in areas prone to stress, they have become less susceptible to thread breakage even after many years of use.
Both Carriage and Undo have been produced for many years, but by removing the stitching in the bending areas, we were able to improve them to be even less prone to defects.
In addition, many Munekawa items use pigskin for the lining to achieve both compactness and durability, but most of the parts where cowhide and pigskin are bonded together have no stitching.
This is because they are bonded with a strong adhesive, and pigskin and cowhide are highly compatible, bonding so strongly with adhesive that it becomes nearly impossible to separate them once joined.
Including the selection of materials, the entire product is designed, and stitching is performed in areas where it is necessary, specifically identifying those places that are subject to particularly high stress.
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So it can be repaired even if it frays
Still, after years of continuous use, threads will gradually wear out. Munekawa products are sewn with this in mind.
If a thread frays, it can be re-sewn using the original needle holes. This allows for repairs without creating new holes in the leather, minimizing stress on the leather while restoring it to its original condition.
"Making things to be difficult to break" and "making things so they can be repaired if they break." These two are always a set in Munekawa's craftsmanship. Please feel free to contact us anytime for consultations regarding thread fraying or re-stitching.
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Where and how to stitch
Stitching is where both design and technical skill are showcased. It's not just about how neatly it's sewn.
Where to overlap stitches, and where to intentionally not stitch. The creator's philosophy is reflected in such design decisions. And when stitching, it's about understanding the intent of the design and precisely placing the needle exactly where it needs to be. This requires the reliable skill of the stitcher.
If you find overlapping threads on your Munekawa product, it's a trace of the design intended for long-term use. Please use it with confidence and enjoy it for many years to come.
▶︎Click here for details on Munekawa's directly managed store in Daikokucho, Osaka
